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DOUBLE-FACE · THE TECHNIQUE
No lining, pure drape.
Double-face is a single cloth with two right sides — opened by hand along one edge, joined by hand along the other. Nothing comes between the body and the cloth; only its drape.
01 - THE TECHNIQUE
A single cloth,
seen edge-on.
Two cloths are woven at once on a single loom, joined by binding threads. They are opened by hand along one face and joined again, stitch by stitch, along the edge. The result has no wrong side: both faces are right sides.
TWO RIGHT SIDES
No wrong side, no lining. Either face can meet the world.
THE INNER BINDING
The threads that join the two cloths on the loom are opened by hand, without cutting the cloth.
THE EDGE, BY HAND
The border is closed by hand with punto d'alma.
02 - HOW IT IS MADE
Woven double, closed by hand.
Two cloths are woven at once on a single loom, joined by binding threads. They are opened by hand along one face and joined again, stitch by stitch, along the edge. The result has no wrong side: both faces are right sides.
Nº 01
Woven double
Two cloths are born at once on a single loom in Biella, joined by binding threads.
Nº 02
Opened by hand
The binding threads are released by hand, thread by thread, until the cloth opens like a book.
Nº 03
Joined by hand
The edge is closed with punto d'alma, invisible. There is no lining to add: the cloth is already finished.
A garment made from a single piece of honesty.
WHY DOUBLE-FACE
80
%
OF A COAT IS, TO MY MIND, THE DRAPE.
It respects the cloth's natural drape. And that is almost everything.
Almost every Murmells coat is made in double-face. The reason is a single one: nothing comes between the body and the cloth — no lining, no interfacing, no facings, no hems.
A lining imposes its own will: stiffness where the wool would fold, weight where the cashmere would float. Double-face does away with it. The cloth falls as it was woven to fall.
And the drape is almost everything. A good cloth, free to carry nothing but itself, finds its line on its own. The rest of the craft is not getting in its way.
03 — THE EDGE, UP CLOSE
What the hand lets show.
DOUBLE-FACE SEAMS · PUNTO D'ALMA
Nº 01
Natural drape
With no lining to hold it, the cloth finds its own line and keeps it in movement.
Nº 02
Two right sides
Both faces are finished; the coat can live by either of them.
Nº 03
Hidden seams
The seam allowances are enclosed between the two cloths; the inside is as clean as the face.
Nº 04
Lighter
For the same coat, it weighs less: only the cloth — no lining, no facings, no hems.
Nº 05
The edge on show
The saddle stitch replaces seam and lining; it is discreet, and it holds over time.
Nº 06
Ages nobly
With no lining to fail before the cloth, the piece ages to a single rhythm — its own.
LIST SUBSCRIPTION · THE JOURNAL
Letters written from the atelier, notices of new pieces in the catalogue, and word of upcoming Trunk Shows or events. One letter every few weeks. Nothing more.