Buy now, pay later with Klarna
A TECHNIQUE · A DECLARATION
A garment that has nothing to hide.
Most coats have a secret: the interior.
A lining that conceals the seams, that covers the joins, that disguises what the cloth cannot show. The double-face has no such secret — because it does not need one.
In a coat made with the double-face technique, the cloth is worked on both sides without an internal lining. The interior of the garment is as carefully finished as the exterior. There is nothing to hide because there is nothing to be ashamed of.
It is only possible when the cloth and the making are equal to it.
THE CLOTH · TECHNIQUE
The double-face technique
I · WHAT IT IS
A cloth woven in two faces
The double-face technique is a tailoring construction in which the coat is made from a special cloth — two layers woven simultaneously on the loom, one outer face and one inner face, both perfectly finished — joined together by a light binding weave.
That bond is firm enough for the cloth to behave as one, and delicate enough to allow both layers to be separated by hand at the seams and stitched individually.
The result is a garment without lining, without industrial interlining, without rigid shoulder pads. The structure of the coat is not given by added layers — it comes from the cloth itself.
It is the historic technique of the Italian tailoring maisons. The most demanding houses have spent over a century perfecting it. It is the construction that defined the Italian fine coat of the twentieth century — and remains, today, the most exacting technical standard a coat can aspire to.
II · HOW IT IS MADE
Where the craft begins
The double-face begins in the cloth — a fabric woven in two layers during the weaving process. But the true technique begins later, on the cutting table.
Every seam of the coat requires a process that allows no shortcuts: basting a guide along the entire seam line, manually separating the two layers of cloth with fine shears, stitching each face individually with margins of just 5 millimetres — against the 15 millimetres typical of conventional tailoring — and closing the seam by folding the cloth over itself and finishing it by hand on the inner face.
The same process is repeated on every edge, every hem, every dart, every join.
There is no machinery that resolves the double-face seams automatically. It is work of needle, thread, and time. That is why a double-face coat demands between three and five times more hours of making than a conventional coat with lining. And that is why few houses make it — because industrially it is not viable, and by hand it requires a skill that cannot be improvised.
A garment made from a single piece of honesty.
III · WHY IT REQUIRES THE FINEST CLOTHS
The cloth stands exposed
The double-face does not forgive the cloth. With no lining to conceal the interior, the quality of the raw material is completely exposed — inside and out. A cloth of inferior quality would show its imperfections in every seam, in every finish, in every hem.
That is why at Murmells the double-face is only worked with cashmere and virgin wool from the historic mills of the Italian Piedmont. Cloths in weights between 500 and 720 g/m², with the weight, the body, and the finish needed for the technique to work to its full potential — and for the interior of the garment to be as beautiful as the exterior.
IV · WHAT IT BRINGS TO THE GARMENT
What is felt when worn
A double-face coat has a different presence. Denser, more structured, more definitive. The absence of lining allows the cloth to fall more naturally and the silhouette to be cleaner — without the layered effect that lining sometimes creates.
It is also a garment lighter than it appears. Because the structure is built from the cloth itself and not from added layers, the weight is distributed evenly across the shoulders — without the concentrated rigidity of conventional constructions. This allows you to wear a coat with body and impeccable drape that, once on, feels like a second skin rather than an armour.
It is warmer and more honest: by removing the synthetic lining, it is the two layers of noble cloth that are in direct contact with the body. The skin does not touch polyester or viscose — it touches virgin wool or cashmere. A difference that is felt from the first moment you put the coat on, and that does not disappear with wear.
And it is more enduring: without a lining to wear out, come apart, or deteriorate over time, the garment ages in a more uniform and dignified way.
V · THE DOUBLE-FACE AT MURMELLS
The standard of the house
Each timeless coat at Murmells is made by hand using the double-face technique. It is the technique that defines the collection, the one that demands the most time and the most judgement in selecting the cloth, and the one that best represents the philosophy of the house: to make things well, without concession, with the materials that deserve that level of attention.
The cloth comes from the historic mills of the Italian Piedmont — the same region that has supplied the great European tailoring maisons for more than a century. The making is carried out in Spain, by hand, in intentionally limited productions.
TECHNICAL SHEET
The double-face in figures
Type of construction
Two layers woven and bonded on the loom, no lining
Cloth origin
Historic mills of the Italian Piedmont
Fibres used
Pure cashmere, virgin wool, cashmere–wool blends 50/50
Standard weight
500 a 720 g/m²
Seam margin
5 millimetres
Making
By hand, in Spain