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THE CLOTH · Nº 02 OF 03
Cashmere.
Inner Mongolia. An exceptional fibre.
The down of the Alashan goats, formed through the winters of the Inner Gobi. Hand-combed during the spring moult.
02 — ABOUT THIS FIBRE
Cashmere is the down that grows beneath the outer coat of the Alashan goat. Each spring, herders gather this inner layer with combs — slow, precise gestures passed down through generations. From the fleece, only the inner down is kept; the transition hair and the guard hair are sorted out and discarded.
What remains is a fibre between 14 and 16 microns — finer than a human hair. Cashmere brings together a silken softness, a lightness, and a thermal capacity that have no equal in the world of natural fibres.
Cashmere is three times warmer than sheep's wool at a fraction of the weight. Its hollow fibres trap air and regulate body temperature, insulating against cold without overheating in milder climates.
It is hypoallergenic, evident at first touch, and notably elastic. The garment recovers its silhouette with ease, resists creasing, and holds its drape through the years. With wear, cashmere does not deteriorate — it softens.
— Atelier notes · Extremadura, Spain
02 — THE UNDYED CARD
The natural colour.
Natural undyed cashmere falls, conventionally into four colours.
W - 01
White
The most prized. The majority in Alashan.
G -02
Grey
Natural, second most common.
B - 06
Dark brown
Natural. Less common.
BK - 07
Black
Natural, rare.
Most prized when genuinely natural, undyed.
03 — THE COAT
Four things a cashmere coat does.
Nº 01
Warmth
Three times the thermal value of sheep's wool at the same weight. The coat is not heavy — it is warm.
Nº 02
Handle
A dry, dense softness. The fibre is fine enough to be worn against bare skin, without a lining.
Nº 03
Drape
The double-face gives structure. It holds the shoulder, falls in a clean column and resists creasing.
Nº 04
Longevity
The long fibre wears inward, not outward. The handle deepens with a decade of wear.
04 — THE ROLLS
THREE CASHMERES, today.
Technical sheets. Before the first cut.
ROLL WEIGHT 1
420
g/m²
Pure Mongolian cashmere, of the finest yarns there are: soft, silken, with an enveloping warmth barely felt as weight. A fine double-face — two cloths woven until they become one, finished and handsome on both faces — so the coat goes without a lining and looks as cared-for within as without. Its smooth, close-cropped surface lets the light slip across it and lends the black a deep, silken sheen that moves with the garment. Compact and full-bodied, it falls with composure and warms as few cloths can. One of those cloths you recognise the moment you touch them.
COMPOSITION
100% Mongolia Cashmere
Down only — no coarse transition hair.
FIBRE ORIGIN
Inner Mongolia
Hand-combed at the spring moult.
CLOTH ORIGIN
Italian Piedmont
Italy, Biella wool district.
CONSTRUCTION
Double-face
Two cloths woven into one; identical finish, face and reverse.
FINISH
Carded, faint sheen
Nap raised; cropped once. A faint sheen.
COLOUR
Black
Black, face and reverse.
CHARACTER
Fluid
Falls close to the body; for light lines and coats without rigid structure.
EDITION
Limited run
Archive roll. Once it runs out, it is not restocked.
ROLL WEIGHT 2
565
g/m²
Pure Mongolian cashmere, spun from the goat's finest fleece, in its natural colour: this raw white — a very pale ivory — has passed through no dye, so the fibre keeps its softness intact and a faint sheen no treatment could imitate. A fine double-face — two layers of cashmere woven and joined by an invisible thread until they become one, finished and handsome on both faces — so the coat goes without a lining and looks the same within as without. It has notable body: it carries weight, it truly warms, and it holds volume with composure. In the hand it is compact, silken and enveloping, with a fluid drape. A white that has not been dyed, calmer — the one the fibre gives of itself.
COMPOSITION
100% Mongolia Cashmere
Down only — no guard hair, no transition hair.
FIBRE ORIGIN
Inner Mongolia
Combed by hand, at the spring moult.
CLOTH ORIGIN
Italian Piedmont
Italy, Biella wool district.
CONSTRUCTION
Double-face
Two cloths woven into one; identical finish, face and reverse.
FINISH
Compact, slight sheen
Silken handle, dense body. A faint sheen.
COLOUR
Natural white
Undyed, not optical. The fibre keeps its colour of origin.
CHARACTER
Structured
Holds shoulder and volume; for body-led, architectural silhouettes.
EDITION
Limited run
Archive roll. Once it runs out, it is not restocked.
ROLL WEIGHT 3
495
g/m²
Pure Mongolian cashmere in camel — that warm honey tone that dresses the cloth on both faces. What sets it apart is the sablé finish: the surface is brushed with natural teasels until a very fine, airy nap is raised, giving it a suede-like touch and a warm sheen that seems to catch fire in the light. A double-face — two layers joined into a single cloth finished on both faces — so the coat does without a lining and stays handsome within and without. At 495 grams per square metre it has body and real warmth, without turning rigid. A camel that lights up in the light and warms like a second skin.
COMPOSITION
100% Mongolia Cashmere
Down only — no coarse transition hair.
FIBRE ORIGIN
Inner Mongolia
Combed by hand, at the spring moult.
CLOTH ORIGIN
Italian Piedmont
Asti · Biella wool district.
CONSTRUCTION
Double-face
Two cloths woven into one; identical finish, face and reverse.
FINISH
Sablé, teaseled
Brushed with natural teasels: a rippled surface, with sheen and a suede-like touch.
COLOUR
Camel
Camel, face and reverse.
CHARACTER
Expressive
Medium weight, a surface brought alive by the teasel finish; the warmest in tone.
EDITION
Limited run
Archive roll. Once it runs out, it is not restocked.
02 — A ESCALA
Catorce coma cinco micras.
Una micra es la milésima parte de un milímetro. Por debajo de dieciséis se considera fino. Las secciones de tresfibras, dibujadas a la misma escala — la del cashmere puede verse, apenas.
70 micras
Nº 01
Cabello humano
Diametro medio, fibra adulta.
18 micras
Nº 02
Lana Merino
Grado "extrafina". Por debajo se considera de tacto piel.
14,5 micras
Nº 03
Cashmere
Solo el duvet interior. Por debajo de 16 micras se considera fino.
LIST SUBSCRIPTION · THE JOURNAL
Letters written from the atelier, notices of new pieces in the catalogue, and word of upcoming Trunk Shows or events. One letter every few weeks. Nothing more.