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Alpaca
A fibre born at four thousand metres
There is a fibre that was born where almost nothing survives — on the high plateaus of the Peruvian Andes, above four thousand metres, where temperatures swing between the extreme heat of day and the glacial cold of night. The alpaca evolved over millennia in that environment, and its fleece adapted accordingly: it produced a fibre capable of insulating from cold without accumulating weight, of regulating body temperature in both directions and of withstanding conditions that would destroy any synthetic fibre.
The Andean peoples bred and sheared alpacas for centuries. For the Inca empire, alpaca fibre was a good reserved for nobility — the Andean equivalent of what silk represented in China. Today, Peru remains the global epicentre of alpaca fibre production, and the Italian textile industry is one of its principal destinations: Italian mills have been incorporating alpaca into the highest-end coat fabrics for decades.
What alpaca fibre is
The alpaca is a South American camelid related to the llama, the vicuña and the guanaco. Its fibre is obtained through annual shearing, typically in spring — a process that causes no harm to the animal. There are two main breeds: the Huacaya, whose fibre is dense, crimped and spongy — similar in appearance to a teddy bear — and the Suri, whose fibre grows in long, silky, draping locks, similar to silk.
Unlike sheep's wool, alpaca fibre contains no lanolin. This has two important consequences: it is naturally hypoallergenic — it does not irritate sensitive skin or cause the reactions that conventional wool can provoke — and it does not require the aggressive chemical washing processes that wool needs to remove its natural grease. It is a cleaner fibre from the outset.
Fibre diameter varies according to category — from 25–29 microns in regular alpaca to fewer than 19 microns in Royal Alpaca, the most exclusive grade in existence.
Alpaca, Baby Alpaca and Royal Alpaca — how they differ
There is a widespread misunderstanding around the term "Baby Alpaca". It is worth clarifying.
Alpaca is the general category. Fibre with a diameter of between 25 and 29 microns, obtained from the body of the adult animal. It is warm, resilient and with sufficient body for heavy coat fabrics. It is the fibre used in the long-pile and short-pile fabrics that give alpaca coats their characteristic visual texture.
Baby Alpaca does not come from baby alpacas — it is a grade of fineness. It is obtained from the finest areas of the adult animal's fleece, typically the back, or from the animal's first shearing. Its diameter sits between 19 and 21.5 microns, making it one of the softest fibres in existence — comparable to the finest cashmere. Its handle is silky, its weight extraordinarily light and its natural lustre requires no treatment. In coat fabric, Baby Alpaca produces garments with a softness and luminosity that no other fibre replicates exactly.
Royal Alpaca is the most exclusive category. Fibre with a diameter below 19 microns — finer than most cashmeres on the market. It is extremely scarce and reserved for garments of the highest demand. Not every fleece produces it.
Properties and characteristics
Exceptional thermal capacity. Alpaca fibre is up to eight times warmer than sheep's wool. Its fibres are semi-hollow — they contain microscopic air pockets that act as natural insulation, trapping warmth without adding weight or bulk to the garment.
Lightness. The semi-hollow structure of the fibre means that alpaca fabrics are remarkably lighter than others of similar weight. An alpaca coat provides the warmth of a far heavier garment.
Hypoallergenic. Containing no lanolin, alpaca is suitable for sensitive skin and does not produce the allergic reactions that sheep's wool can provoke. It is one of the few noble fibres that can be worn directly against the skin without irritation.
Natural lustre. Alpaca fibre has a silky, natural sheen that requires no chemical treatment. This lustre is particularly visible in long-pile fabrics, where the fibre catches and reflects light in a subtle, living way.
Resilience. Alpaca is up to four times stronger than sheep's wool. The fibres do not break easily, making garments exceptionally long-lasting. It resists pilling at a level that few other fibres match.
Thermal regulation. Like virgin wool, alpaca regulates body temperature — it insulates from cold and maintains breathability when temperatures rise. The air pockets within the fibre work in both directions.
Short pile, long pile and texture as character
In coat fabrics, alpaca is worked in two finishes that produce radically different results.
Short pile gives the fabric a dense, compact, velvety handle. It is a more restrained finish, with presence but without drama. Ideal for coats with clean lines where the focus is on cut and drape — the fabric envelops without drawing attention to itself.
Long pile transforms the character of the garment entirely. The loose, visible, moving fibre creates a coat with sculptural presence — each step generates a subtle movement in the fabric that no other fibre achieves. It is a finish with more personality, more expression, more visual impact.
The choice between short pile and long pile is not cosmetic — it is constructive. Each finish calls for a different pattern, a different cut, a different silhouette. At Murmells, the finish is chosen according to what the garment needs to be, not as added decoration.
long hair alpaca
short hair alpaca
Alpaca at Murmells
Alpaca brings Murmells something that none of the other noble fibres offers in quite the same way: warmth without weight, visual texture and an identity that is recognised at first sight. A long-pile alpaca coat cannot be mistaken for anything else. A short-pile Baby Alpaca coat has a softness and luminosity that surprises anyone who touches it for the first time.
We work with alpaca fabrics produced in Italy — where Andean fibre is transformed into high-end coat fabrics at weights of between 700 and 800 g/m². The combination of the Peruvian origin of the fibre with Italian artisanal finishing produces a fabric that exists in no other context.
As with every fibre at Murmells, the selection criterion is the same: the finest fibre possible, worked by the finest hands possible, for the garment that needs it.
Care for alpaca garments
Cleaning
Alpaca coats require dry cleaning. Alpaca fibre is naturally resistant to odours and stains — between wears, air the garment in a ventilated space for a few hours. Frequent washing is not necessary.
Storage
Always store folded, never hung — the weight of the fabric can distort the shoulders over time. For seasonal storage, make sure the garment is clean and dry. Add a cedar or lavender sachet to protect the natural fibres from moths.
Maintenance
If the coat is long pile, brush it gently in the natural direction of the fibre with a soft-bristled brush to maintain the texture. Avoid prolonged contact with rough surfaces or accessories with zips that may snag the fibres.
Discover our alpaca garments
We are preparing new pieces in this fabric. In the meantime, you can explore our current collection. View collection