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THE CLOTH · Nº 01 OF 03
Camel hair
A fibre that nature gives of its own accord.
The inner down of the Bactrian camel — the two-humped camel (Camelus bactrianus). Gathered once a year, at the natural spring moult, and woven undyed.
01 — ABOUT THIS FIBRE
Camel hair is the down that grows beneath the outer coat of the Bactrian camel, gathered once a year as the animal sheds naturally at the end of spring. From the fleece we keep only the inner layer — the coarse guard hair, dry and bristled, is sorted out and discarded. What remains is finer than eighteen microns, longer than thirty millimetres, and warm enough to cut a coat with or without lining.
It is one of the most complete fibres in nature. Its hollow structure gives it exceptional thermal capacity: it insulates against winter cold and regulates temperature in transitional months, settling to the body with precision.
It is hypoallergenic, kind to sensitive skin, and notably abrasion-resistant. It is not dyed: the colour you see is the camel that gave it. The range moves between pale beige and cacao — a palette that needs no intervention because it is already exact.
— Atelier notes · Extremadura, Spain
02 — THE UNDYED CARD
The palette is the animal.
Camel hair is not dyed. The card comes from the fleece itself — from the first clip of the calf to the cocoa of the adult Gobi.
BG - 01
Calf – first clip
Juvenile Bactrian fleece.
BG-02
Young Bactrian
Central Mongolia, light shearing.
BG - 03
Pale camel
Young adult, first moult.
BG - 04
Camel
Mid adult, mixed fleece.
BG - 05
Tobacco
Adult Bactrian, dorsal.
BG - 06
Hazelnut
Highland adult.
BG - 07
Cocoa — adult
Mature fleece, deep coat.
03 — THE COAT
Four things a camel-hair coat does.
Nº 01
Warmth
The camel's fibre is hollow. At equal weight, it warms more than sheep's wool and almost as much as cashmere.
Nº 02
Handle
A dry softness, faintly fibrous, that carding opens and that softens with each season.
Nº 03
Drape
More body than cashmere. It holds the lapel open, supports the shoulder and does not give to the wind.
Nº 04
Undyed
The colour is the fleece's own. There is no dye-bath to dull; the years only deepen it.
04 — THE ROLLS
TWO CAMELS, today.
Technical sheets. Before the first cut.
ROLL WEIGHT 1
350
g/m²
Pure camel hair in its natural colour: that warm, golden camel the fibre carries from birth, undyed. It is the down the camel grows beneath its coat to withstand the cold, and everything follows from there — soft, lofty, silken to the touch, with a discreet sheen and a warmth that needs no bulk. Woven in Biella, in Piedmont. Light: a cloth that warms generously and weighs little, easy to wear all day. The camel in its most honest form — light, warm, and the colour that is its own.
COMPOSITION
100% camel hair
Only the Bactrian's inner down — the guard hair is separated out and returned.
FIBRE ORIGIN
Mongolia, Central Asia
Camelus bactrianus. Gathered at its natural moult in late spring.
CLOTH ORIGIN
Italian Piedmont
Italy, Biella wool district.
CONSTRUCTION
Single face
One finished face; made up with a lining.
FINISH
Soft, lofty
Silken, cushioned handle.
COLOUR
Pale camel
Undyed; the palette comes from the animal. BG-03 · Early adult. First moult.
CHARACTER
Light and soft
Natural camel tone, lofty handle; for fluid coats, not structured ones.
EDITION
Limited run
Archive roll. Once it runs out, it is not restocked.
ROLL WEIGHT 2
510
g/m²
Pure camel hair dyed a deep black that holds the fibre's warmth and silken handle beneath the colour. A double-face: two cloths brought together into one, finished on both faces — so the coat does without a lining and looks as good within as without. It has body and a notable warmth, the same with which the camel withstands the cold of the desert, now dressed in black. A black on a warm ground: the sobriety of the colour over the camel's own natural coat.
COMPOSITION
100% camel hair
Only the Bactrian's inner down — the guard hair is separated out and returned.
FIBRE ORIGIN
Mongolia, Central Asia
Bactrian camel, combed by hand, at the spring moult.
CLOTH ORIGIN
Italian Piedmont
Italy, Biella wool district.
CONSTRUCTION
Double-face
Two cloths woven into one: identical finish, face and reverse.
FINISH
Soft nap
Nap raised; cropped once. A faint sheen.
COLOUR
Black
Black, face and reverse.
CHARACTER
Structured and sober
Full coat weight; in black, the most urban of the rolls.
05- CUT AND PATTERNED IN THIS CLOTH
CAMEL HAIR COATS — limited run · no seasons
LIST SUBSCRIPTION · THE JOURNAL
Letters written from the atelier, notices of new pieces in the catalogue, and word of upcoming Trunk Shows or events. One letter every few weeks. Nothing more.