A GUIDE TO CARE
Care.
A good coat is not maintained. It is cared for. And in being cared for, it grows better with the years.
Noble fibres have a behaviour of their own. Knowing it is what makes the difference between a coat that lasts decades and one that ages before its time. This guide gathers what matters.
CONTENTS
What you will find in this guide.
I
GENERAL
PRINCIPLES
II
CARE BY
CLOTH
III
KNOWLEDGE FROM
THE WORKSHOP
IV
WHEN CALL
A PROFESSIONAL
I · GENERAL PRINCIPLES
Five universal rules.
They apply to every noble cloth we work with at Murmells. They are the code of the craft, not advice.
I
Dry cleaning with solvent F.
Professional cleaning should be done with hydrocarbon solvent F — not trichloroethylene, not perchloroethylene. Hydrocarbon does not affect the fibre's structure and preserves the cloth's original strength. Before leaving the coat at a cleaner, it is worth confirming the solvent used.
II
Natural cloth bag, never plastic.
Plastic traps nitrogen oxides from the air, which react with phenolic compounds in the fibre and accelerate yellowing. It also prevents natural breathing. A breathable cotton or linen bag, always.
III
Clean before storage, not after.
Moths do not eat clean wool. They eat residues of skin, perspiration, and food that remain in the fibres. A coat properly cleaned before storage is practically untouchable. Clean at the end of the season, not at the start of the next one.
IV
Rest between wears, at least 24 hours.
Noble fibres have memory of form — they recover their original shape with time and air. Rotating coats is not luxury. It is science. A piece worn on consecutive days loses its shape sooner than one that rests between wears.
V
Gentle brushing after each wear.
With a natural-bristle brush, in the direction of the fibre. It lifts dust, restores the nap of the cloth, and prevents damage before it appears. Thirty seconds that extend the life of the coat by years.
II · CARE BY CLOTH
Each fibre, its own care.
The five cloths of Murmells share principles but behave differently. Each one calls for its own attention.
CLEANING
Camel hair is naturally self-cleaning, thanks to its lanolin and antibacterial properties. One professional cleaning at the end of each season is enough. Between wears, airing the coat in a ventilated room for a few hours will do. Dry cleaning with solvent F.
STORAGE
Folded, or hung on a wide wooden hanger. Breathable cotton bag. A small sachet of cedar or lavender nearby — never in direct contact with the cloth.
MAINTENANCE
Brush gently in the direction of the fibre after each wear. Avoid prolonged contact with rough surfaces or zippers. If pilling appears, remove it with a brush made for noble fibres — it is a natural process, not a sign of poor quality.
CLEANING
Coats in double-face cashmere cannot be hand washed — the unlined construction, joined at pick stitch, comes apart in water. Professional dry cleaning with solvent F, exclusively. Cashmere has natural self-cleaning properties that reduce the need for frequent washing.
STORAGE
Folded for long-term storage, or hung on a wide wooden hanger for regular use. Never in plastic — cashmere is particularly prone to yellowing when confined.
MAINTENANCE AND PILLING
Pilling is a natural behaviour of pure cashmere — not a defect. The first fifteen to twenty wears produce the most pilling; after that, the fibre settles. A cashmere comb, drawn in one direction, with very light pressure. Never a razor blade. Never an electric shaver.
CLEANING
Virgin wool is naturally self-cleaning, antibacterial, and resistant to creasing. Dry cleaning with solvent F at the end of the season. Between wears, a few hours in a ventilated room is enough.
STORAGE
Hung on a wide wooden hanger or folded, depending on the construction of the coat. Breathable cotton bag. Virgin wool can absorb up to 30% of its weight in moisture without feeling wet — it is not stored in damp places.
CREASES AND MAINTENANCE
For light creases, vertical steam (a handheld steamer, or the steam of a hot shower). If ironing is needed, maximum 110°C / 230°F with steam off — the Woolmark standard — always with a press cloth between iron and wool.
CLEANING
Both fibres have self-cleaning and antibacterial properties that reduce the need for frequent washing. The double-face construction calls for professional dry cleaning with solvent F. No hand washing, under any circumstance.
STORAGE
Folded or hung on a wide wooden hanger. Cotton bag. The presence of virgin wool gives the cloth more structural resilience than pure cashmere, but it asks for the same storage care.
PILLING
The fifty-fifty proportion offers significantly greater pilling resistance than pure cashmere — the longer fibre of virgin wool stabilises the blend. If pilling appears, remove it with a cashmere comb in one direction, light pressure.
CLEANING
Alpaca contains no lanolin — it is naturally resistant to stains, odours, and bacteria. It needs less cleaning than any other noble fibre: it can be worn four or five times before cleaning is needed. Dry cleaning with solvent F at the end of the season.
STORAGE
Folded or hung on a wide wooden hanger. Cotton bag. The natural antimicrobial properties of alpaca protect it better than other fibres during storage.
SHORT-HAIR AND LONG-HAIR
The finish defines the care. Short-hair: brush gently after each wear, with natural bristles. Long-hair: avoid prolonged contact with abrasive surfaces (handbags, seat belts). Never iron long-hair alpaca — it crushes the character of the cloth. Vertical steam, always.
III · KNOWLEDGE FROM THE WORKSHOP
What the craft teaches.
Seven things worth knowing about noble fibres. Not advice. The knowledge of the craft, shared with whoever will carry the coat for years.
Why pale cloths yellow.
Yellowing is not the cloth ageing — it is a chemical reaction. Nitrogen oxides in the air react with phenolic compounds naturally present in the fibre, especially when heat or UV light is present. The phenomenon is known in the textile industry as phenolic yellowing, and it is the principal reason a pale cloth stored in plastic yellows over time: the plastic traps these gases in direct contact with the fibre.
Pale coats are ironed at a lower temperature than dark ones — heat activates the oxidation that produces yellowing. And they are never stored in plastic bags.
Pilling is normal behaviour.
Pilling — the formation of small balls on the surface of the cloth — is a natural behaviour of noble fibres, not a defect. The shorter fibres on the surface entangle with everyday friction, especially in points of rub: elbows, sides, under the arms.
The first fifteen to twenty wears produce the most pilling; after that, the fibre settles. Pure cashmere pills more than blends with virgin wool — the longer fibre of the wool stabilises the blend.
The correct method: a cashmere comb in one direction, light pressure. Never a razor blade — real risk of a hole. Never an aggressive electric shaver — it thins the cloth.
If the coat gets wet.
Wool can absorb up to 30% of its weight in moisture without feeling wet — a property European tailoring has drawn upon for centuries. If the coat gets wet, do not hang it damp in the wardrobe: lay it flat or on a wide wooden hanger in a ventilated room.
Critical: never near radiators, heating, or direct sun. Direct heat shrinks the fibre and destroys the coat. Time and ventilated air. The damp smell disappears when the coat dries completely.
Correct seasonal storage.
Moths do not eat clean wool. They eat organic residues: skin, perspiration, food, lanolin. A coat properly cleaned before storage is practically untouchable by moths.
Breathable cotton bag, never plastic. Cedar or lavender in small sachets, never in direct contact with the cloth. And refresh the sachets every three or four weeks: the volatile oils that repel moths evaporate, and old cedar has no effect.
Cedar chests work better than loose sachets: the repellent effect depends on the concentration of oils in an enclosed space.
How to iron correctly.
Wool is ironed at a maximum of 110°C / 230°F with steam off — the Woolmark standard. Always with a press cloth between the iron and the wool, to avoid direct contact. But vertical steam is preferable to ironing: a handheld steamer or the steam of a hot shower releases light creases without disturbing the fibre.
Cloths with nap are never ironed: long-hair alpaca, velvety cashmeres, finishes with visible pile. Pressure crushes the character of the cloth. Steam only.
Stain protocol.
A liquid stain is stopped in the moment. Blot immediately with a clean cloth — never rub, which only pushes the stain deeper into the fibre. Cold water, never hot, because heat sets stains permanently.
Grease stains are not touched with water: straight to professional cleaning. And chlorine bleach, never, under any circumstance: it produces permanent yellowing in protein fibres like wool, cashmere, and alpaca.
The freezer method.
For small pieces that hold an odour — scarves, hats, accessories — the freezer is an alternative to washing: twenty-four hours in a sealed bag eliminate bacteria and neutralise odours without disturbing the fibre. It does not work for full coats, but is useful for small pieces one does not wish to wash after each wear.
IV · WHEN TO CALL A PROFESSIONAL
What is not solved at home.
Murmells recommends professional cleaning at the end of each season — not because the coat needs it, but because preventive cleaning extends its life more than any other form of care.
THE PROFESSIONAL IS ESSENTIAL FOR
Stains that do not lift with immediate blotting
Persistent odours that do not fade with airing
Extensive pilling across large areas
Tears, loose stitching, small holes
End of season — cleaning before storage
Start of season — inspection before wear
Important: the cleaner must use solvent F — hydrocarbon, not aggressive perchloroethylene or trichloroethylene. When in doubt, ask before leaving the coat. Cleaners with experience in noble fibres give the best results for premium coats.