Virgin wool
The fibre in its purest state
The word "virgin" in the textile world is not decorative — it is a guarantee. Virgin wool is obtained directly from the animal's fleece for the first time, without having been previously processed, recycled or blended. It has not served any other purpose. It has not passed through any process that alters its natural properties. It is wool in its original state, with all its natural oils intact — including lanolin, which gives it natural water resistance and contributes to its elasticity and durability.
Compared to recycled wool or synthetic fibres, the difference is immediate to the touch. The fibres are longer, stronger and more elastic. The resulting garment has more body, better drape and an infinitely superior lifespan.
It is, moreover, the most versatile fibre in tailoring. A heavy tweed from the Scottish Highlands and a fine Italian flannel are both virgin wool — yet they produce radically different garments. The weight, the spinning, the finishing and the tradition of the mill determine what kind of garment each fabric asks to become. That versatility is what has made virgin wool the backbone of European tailoring for centuries.
What virgin wool is
Virgin wool is obtained from the first shearing of the sheep — a process typically carried out once a year, in spring, when the animal no longer needs its winter coat. The resulting fibre retains its natural properties in full: elasticity, strength, thermal capacity and the lanolin that protects it naturally.
The international certification that distinguishes virgin wool is Pure New Wool from The Woolmark Company, the global standard for over half a century. Only wool that comes directly from the sheep, without blending with recycled fibres or treatments that alter the original structure of the fibre, may carry this certification. Fibre diameter varies according to the breed — from 15.5 microns in the finest merino to 30 microns or above in mountain breeds, each with distinct properties and specific applications.
Unlike synthetic fibres, virgin wool is completely biodegradable. At the end of its useful life it returns to the earth without leaving microplastics or residue. It is, in the most literal sense, a circular fibre.
Properties and characteristics
Active thermal regulation. The microscopic structure of wool — overlapping scales that trap air between the fibres — allows it to regulate body temperature in both directions: it insulates from cold in winter and maintains breathability during transitional months.
Moisture management. It can absorb up to 30% of its weight in moisture without feeling wet — and releases it naturally when the environment allows.
Natural antibacterial properties. It resists odours without the need for frequent washing. Airing is, in most cases, sufficient.
Elasticity and shape memory. The garment recovers its silhouette after being compressed or folded. Virgin wool can stretch up to 30% of its length without permanent deformation — a capacity no synthetic fibre replicates.
Fire resistance. Virgin wool is naturally flame-retardant. It does not melt — it chars slowly, without propagating flame or releasing toxic gases. A safety property that synthetic fibres do not possess.
Durability. The fibres bend rather than break, making wool one of the most wear-resistant materials among natural fibres.
Two traditions, one criterion
Virgin wool has something no other noble fibre shares: two great production traditions that have been refining it in parallel for centuries — the Italian and the English. Each brings something different, and together they cover the full spectrum of what a wool fabric can be.
The Italian tradition — Biella, Piedmont. The historic mills of the Biella district produce refined virgin wool with a soft handle, elegant drape and impeccable finish. It is the wool that demanding constructions such as double-face call for, where the fibre is exposed on both sides and its quality admits no compromise. The Biella tradition prioritises softness, fluidity and handle — a fibre that caresses.
The English tradition — Yorkshire, Huddersfield. The looms of Huddersfield and the Yorkshire valleys have been producing wools of a radically different character for centuries: tweeds with structure, visible texture, weight and presence. Donegal tweed, herringbone, Prince of Wales — these are fabrics with personality that communicate craft at first sight. The English tradition prioritises body, resilience and the identity of the cloth — a fibre that speaks.
When Murmells selects a virgin wool fabric, the decision is never automatic. It depends on the garment. A double-face coat calls for the softness and finishing perfection of an Italian mill. A piece with character, texture and the soul of the countryside calls for the honesty of an English tweed. The criterion is not the origin — it is the coherence between the fabric and what the garment needs to be.
Virgin wool, merino, lambswool and recycled wool — how they differ
There is considerable confusion around these terms. It is worth clarifying.
Virgin wool is the general term for all wool obtained directly from the animal for the first time, without recycling. It covers all sheep breeds and all fibre diameters. It is the category within which all others sit.
Merino wool is virgin wool from the merino sheep — a specific breed that originated in Spain and is today raised primarily in Australia and New Zealand. Its fibre is finer than that of most breeds (between 15.5 and 24 microns), which makes it softer to the touch. All merino is virgin wool, but not all virgin wool is merino.
Lambswool is virgin wool obtained from the first shearing of a young lamb — typically before its seventh month. It is the softest, finest fibre that animal will ever produce, as subsequent shearings yield coarser fibres. It is not a breed — it is an age.
Recycled wool is fibre recovered from previously worn garments or used fabrics, which are unravelled and respun. It is a legitimate option from an environmental standpoint, but the resulting fibres are shorter, less elastic and less resilient. It is not comparable in performance to virgin wool.
Virgin wool at Murmells
Virgin wool is the most present fibre at Murmells — the one that appears across the widest range of garments, covers the greatest variety of constructions and offers the broadest spectrum of possibilities.
For coats crafted using the double-face technique, we work with virgin wool from the historic mills of Biella — fabrics of between 500 and 720 g/m² with the softness and finish the technique demands. For garments with more character and texture, we incorporate pure virgin wool tweeds from the historic looms of Huddersfield.
For dresses, skirts and lighter pieces, we select fine Italian flannels and fabrics at lower weights.
The thread that connects them is not a single mill. It is a constant selection criterion: pure virgin wool, free from synthetic blends, with the best possible match between fibre and garment.
Care for virgin wool garments
Cleaning
Virgin wool coats require dry cleaning. Wool has natural self-cleaning properties — between wears, air the garment in a ventilated space for a few hours to keep it fresh without frequent washing.
Storage
Always store folded, never hung — hangers distort the shoulder over time. For seasonal storage, make sure the garment is clean and dry, and keep it in a breathable fabric bag. Add a cedar or lavender sachet to protect the natural fibres from moths.
Maintenance
Virgin wool is naturally wrinkle-resistant. If it needs a light refresh, hang it in a gently steamed environment — a bathroom after a shower is sufficient. Avoid prolonged contact with rough surfaces or accessories with zips that may cause friction on the fabric.
Discover our virgin wool garments
We are preparing new pieces in this fabric. In the meantime, you can explore our current collection. View collection