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ABOUT
A house devoted to
the coat.
Contained, and deliberately so. Coats in noble fibres,
made for the first winter and for every one that follows.
ATELIER · EXTREMADURA, ESPAÑA
PILAR CORTÉS
A matter of discernment.
There are women who dress by instinct rather than by trend. They know good cloth by its handle, know what suits them, and will not be hurried. They go out whatever the weather, into town, into the country, abroad, and ask of a coat what they ask of everything else: that it be equal to the occasion, without needing to announce it.
For them, a coat is not a piece for one season. It is a decision made once, and appreciated for years.
A way of making.
Murmells does not keep pace with trends. It works to another measure of time: there are no seasons, and no collections.
Each coat is made in Spain, in limited series, with rigorous attention to construction, finish and proportion. Not out of romanticism, but because certain garments only make sense when they are properly made. A noble fibre asks everything else to rise to meet it: precision, craft and time.
MAKING
Spain
By hand. Speciality: double-face. Between 27 and 40 hours per coat.
SERIES
Limited
Cut from the roll, to order. No stock held.
CALENDAR
No seasons
Outside the ready-to-wear cycle.
OVER TIME
It improves
It loses no character. It gains it.
Close to the skin.
Fibres born of the cold
Before they were coats, they were someone else’s: the Bactrian camel’s in the Gobi Desert, the alpaca’s on the Andean altiplano, the cashmere goat’s on the steppes of Mongolia. Three fibres that nature perfected to survive extreme cold. They insulate without weight, move with the body’s own temperature, and are felt before they are seen. Nature’s own insulation.
In double-face there is no lining. The cloth is finished on both sides, and what holds you from within is the same fibre that shows without.
Where the fibres come from
They come from the historic mills of Biella, in Piedmont, where noble fibres have been worked for eight centuries.
The soft water that runs down from the Alps is part of the secret of their handle.
murmeln — From German: to murmur, to speak in a low voice.
Murmells came about as the right names sometimes do: by sound before meaning. Only later did murmeln appear, and we kept it, because it describes what we do.
We have no interest in stridency. We are interested in pieces that hold their own through their material, their construction and their presence. Coats that never need to raise their voice.
The hand behind it.
Pilar Cortés. Her path does not answer to a conventional idea of fashion — and perhaps that is why Murmells does not either.
Interior design taught her to read a space. Photography and styling, to read light and form. By the time she came to the coat, she already knew how to look.
That way of looking reached garment-making in time. A direct practice, made of gestures: to observe, to intervene, to try, to correct, to learn. There were years of teaching herself. Then a way of working alongside seamstresses of the trade, who hold the knowledge of the workshop.
Today, that way of learning defines Murmells. A house where the coat is worked with attention, judgement and respect for the material.
It is not about doing much. It is about doing well what is necessary.
‘I don’t make coats for a season. I make them for the twenty years someone will wear them.’
Pilar Cortés